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Honda ST1300 Windshield and Electric Conversion

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Windshields
 


California Scientific windshield for ST1300.

I would just like to say how delighted I am with your large windscreen I purchased recently. It really has made, for me, riding the ST1300 a much more enjoyable experience. Gone is the need to wear ear-plugs, as this screen has removed most of the wind- noise. That has been a huge benefit to me. Gone is the buffeting by the wind on my arms and helmet, and even though I have the handle bar risers fitted, I do not get wet wrists or arms when riding in wet weather. With the under-mirror deflectors, it has also removed the wind buffeting for my pillion (my wife), which obviously has increased her enjoyment in riding the ST1300.
Kind regards,
Stephen.



Electric Windshield Conversion

Instructions to convert ST1300 to electric windshield:

The 2004 ST1300s all come with electric windshields. The 2003 ST1300 standard model is the only ST1300 which will ever be produced without an electric windshield. Because of this, if you do not convert your 2003 bike, I predict you will take a beating when trying to sell it. California Scientific makes an accessory wire harness and modifies the ABS style switch set to make this conversion electrically easy, and mechanically only a bit tedious.

These instructions are for people using the California Scientific wire harnesses instead of the Honda Front Subharness. If you're using the California Scientific wiring harnesses, you do not need a Service Manual, all the pictures and instructions are on this web page, including .pdf's of the relevant service manual pages.

These instructions are mechanically correct no matter how you wish to power up your system. However, if you are using the Honda Front Subharness, you should not follow any of the electrical instructions below. Don't cut off any connectors, don't remove the limit switch tie wrap, don't strip the accessory harness wires or install t-taps.

If you choose to use the Honda ABS Front Subharness, you're on your own. You'll have to figure out how to get it attached to your existing wire harness. I've never done it this way, so don't ask me for help. The Honda Front Subharness is made to connect to the ST1300A main wiring harness, which you do not have. This is why the dealer says you need a completely new wiring harness for your bike, about $1000 installed. Otherwise, you'll need to modify the Front Subharness to fit your existing main harness. You will have to remove the main Front Subharness connector, and get a different connector and wire it up appropriately. Good luck. You'll also have to modify your ABS style switch set, as this plugs into the main wire harness, not the front subharness.

WARNING: The up/down relays are to make sure the power is turned off when the shield maxes out. Without them, you will strip a little 5¢ plastic gear, which will require you to buy an entire new $350 adjuster assembly. The whole point of the electric harness is to make use of the limit switches and the up/down relays. If you wire the relays incorrectly, you can accidently bypass the relays and strip your little 5¢ / $350 gear. We have worked very hard to make certain this cannot happen to you, but you have to do your part: follow the directions carefully.

The accessory wire harness is a Honda optional part required to install the Honda heated grips and the Honda radio. We will use it to supply power to the motor. The up/down relays are to make sure the power is turned off when the shield maxes out. Without them, you will strip a little 5¢ plastic gear, which will require you to buy an entire new $350 adjuster assembly. The relay suspensions are rubber boots to hold the relays in place and protect them from the elements.


Electric Motor Assembly

Left Switch Set

Front Subharness

Relays and suspensions
Honda Part Pictures by Michael Venhaus

Honda ST1300 Electric Windshield Installation Instructions

Here's a copy of the pages in the Honda Service Manual that deal with removing and replacing the fairing. You can download them (about 6.5MB) and print them out for pictures and extra instructions. This job has been done using only the instructions below. Printing out these pages is optional. Thanks to Michael Maynard for scanning them in for me.

I recommend you print out these instructions, and check them off as you go.

Required Parts:

  • Part# Quantity Price Description
  • 38502-mcs-G00 (2) $12 5p Micro Relay
  • 38306-mca-000 (2) $12 Relay Suspension
  • 08A30-mcs-100 $15 Accessory Wire Harness
  • 64170-mcs-G01 $350 Motor Adjuster Assembly
  • 35020-mcs-L00 $65 Left Switch Set (ABS model) (Modified by Calsci)
  • CalSci Wire Harness $60
  • CalSci Switch Mod $20
  • Total, about $575

Required tools:

  • Phillips and flat bladed screwdrivers.
  • 8mm and 10mm wrenches and sockets.
  • Ratchet and 3" extension.
  • 5mm allen wrench.
  • Needle nose pliers.
  • Razor blade.
  • Automotive Electric Connector Crimping Tool.
  • Masking Tape
  • Felt tip marker pen

Preparing the Motor Assembly: (about ½ hour)

  1. There are two blue wires coming out of the motor. About 1" back from the green connector, attach about 2" or masking tape to each wire. The green connector has an open edge, which lets you easily see the brass slide connector inside. This slide connector is connected to the striped wire. Write "down" on the piece of tape attached to this wire. Write "up" on the piece of tape attached to the other wire, the solid blue wire. Cut the green connector off the ends of them, leaving as much wire as possible on the motor. Discard the connector.
  2. Strip ¼" of the end of each motor wire. Attach a red ¼ inch female slide connector to each wire. These are the larger of the four red female slide connectors.
  3. There are two black plastic wire conduits on one side of the motor assembly coming off the limit switches. Each plastic wire conduit contains a black and a red wire. The four wires end in a white connector. When the motor assembly is installed in your bike, the motor will be down and the windshield tracks will go up. About 1" back from the white connector, attach about 2" of masking tape to each of the black plastic wire conduits. Write "up" on the tape attached to the conduit which goes to the limit switch at the top of the windshield track. Write "down" on the tape attached to the conduit which goes to the limit switch at the bottom of the windshield track. Cut the white connector off, leaving as much wire as possible in the conduits. Discard the connector.
  4. There is a tie wrap attaching the two black plastic conduits to the motor frame. Remove the tie wrap entirely and discard it.
  5. Strip ½" of each of the four wires. Fold the exposed wire over so that it is double thickness and ¼" long.Attach a red .187" female slide connector to each black wire. These are the smaller of the four red female slide connectors.Attach a pink fully insulated male slide connector to each red wire.
  6. Take one of the blue relays and write "up" on it. Write "down" on the other relay. The relays are identical, it doesn't matter at this point which you pick.
  7. Attach the green wire harness to the two relays. Slide the red connector onto the middle upper tab on the "up" relay. Slide the nearest blue connector onto the right upper tab on the "up" relay. Slide the next blue connector onto the middle upper tab of the "down" relay. Slide the last blue connector onto the right upper tab of the "down" relay.
  8. Attach the red wire harness to the two relays. Leave the pink fully insulated connector hang for a moment. Attach the next blue connector to the middle tap on the "up" relay. Attach the last blue connector to the middle tab on the "down" relay.
  9. Attach the solid blue motor wire labeled "up" to the lowest tab on the "up" relay.
  10. Attach the blue striped motor wire labeled "down" to the "down" relay.
  11. Attach the black wire from the black conduit labeled "up" to the upper left hand tab on the "up" relay.
  12. Attach the black wire from the black conduit labeled "down" to the upper left hand tab on the "down" relay.
  13. Both relays should have connections made to all five of their tabs now; there should be no open tabs.
  14. Cut ¾" off the open end of each relay suspension rubber boot.
  15. Attach the red wire coming from the switch to the pink fully insulated open connector on the red wire harness.
  16. Attach the black wire coming from the switch to the pink fully insulated open connector on the red wire coming from the "up" limit switch.
  17. Attach the blue wire coming from the switch to the pink fully insulated open connector on the red wire coming from the "down" limit switch.

Fairing Disassembly: (about one hour)

  1. Put the bike on the center stand.
  2. Remove your windshield and the brackets it attaches to. Set it aside. (4) 8mm bolts, (4) 10mm nuts.
  3. Remove left side tip-over wing plastic covers. (1) 5mm allen bolt.
  4. Remove black plastic lower fairing. Leave it under the bike. (10) 5mm allen bolts, (4) rivets
  5. Remove both fairing inner cowlings and right side temperature sensor. Set the cowlings aside. (8) rivets, (3) phillips screws.
  6. Open both glove boxes. Remove (4) exposed phillips screws.
  7. Remove both mirror covers, and detach both electric connectors on both sides. Let the mirror covers hang from their tie-wraps.
  8. Remove both mirrors. Set them aside. (4) 8mm bolts.
  9. Remove (4) phillips screws, two on each side, now exposed under the bottom of the mirror covers.
  10. Loosen left side of fairing. (2) 8mm bolts, (1) 5mm allen bolt. Let it hang.
  11. Remove black fairing upper. (8) rivets, (4) phillips screws.
  12. Loosen silver fairing upper. (8) phillips screws, six under the mirror covers, two under the nose.
  13. Remove black windshield brackets. (4) 10mm bolts + spacer / washer assemblies.
  14. Remove gold windshield brackets. (4) 8mm bolts. Discard the gold brackets. Save the bolts. The gold brackets are the only parts we will not re-use.
  15. Remove gold fairing brace wire. 10mm bolt.
  16. Detach two instrument electrical connectors.
  17. Remove instruments. Set them aside.

Attaching the Honda ABS Style Switch: (about ¼ hour)

  1. Disconnect your clutch lever ignition interlock wires.
  2. Remove your clutch side switch housing. (2) phillips screws
  3. Disconnect nine pin and four pin switch connectors.
  4. Put the lower portion of the new switch in place, being careful to get the locator pin in its hole.
  5. Use the included brass molded strap and brass colored screw to attach the lower switch housing to the handlebars. (1) phillips screw.
  6. Put the upper switch half on. (2) phillips screws.
  7. Attach the nine pin and four pin connectors.
  8. Attach the clutch lever ignition interlock wires.

Attaching the Electric Motor Assembly: (about ½ hour)

  1. Install accessory electric harness. Plug is in off-white plastic cover in front of the left cylinder bank.
  2. Route accessory harness along frame, inside of left fork tube, to the front center of the bike.
  3. Using the razor, strip the black plastic wrap from around one of the accessory connectors. Expose about 1½ inch of wires. If you want the windshield to work only when the ignition key is on, strip the white connector. If you want the windshield to work without the key in the ignition, strip the black connector. Don't touch the red connector or the large square white connector.
  4. Attach the supplied dark red T-taps to the green (ground) and the red/black (power) wires.
  5. Install windshield motor bracket and gold fairing brace wire. (4) 8mm bolts, (1) 10 mm bolt.
  6. Route instrument wires correctly through motor bracket.
  7. Attach lower black windshield brackets to motorized sliders. (4) 10mm bolts + spacer / washer assemblies.
  8. Attach the pink fully insulated connector at the end of the red wire harness to the t-tap on the red/black wire.Attach the pink fully insulated connector at the end of the green wire harness to the t-tap on the green wire.
  9. Turn on the bike, and test the motor. Note which way you move the switch to raise the windshield.
  10. Using a flat screwdriver, work the relays into their suspensions. Attach the suspensions to the support brackets.
  11. Use the included tie wraps to secure the limit switch wires, the power and ground wires, and the switch wires to convenient brackets.

Fairing Assembly: (about one ½ hour)

  1. Replace left fairing panel. Remember to put the electrical plug back into the holder on the glove box side.(1) 5mm allen + (2) 8mm bolts.
  2. Replace tip over wing cover. (1) 5mm allen.
  3. Replace fairing front piece. (6) phillips screws, two go under the nose.
  4. Replace instruments. (6) phillips screws, four above glove boxes, one on each side.
  5. Replace instrument electrical plugs and rubber protection boot.
  6. Replace mirrors. (4) 8mm bolts.
  7. Replace mirror rubber boots. Spit + swearing a bit + flat screwdriver to push in the little tabs on the bottom.
  8. Attach (4) electric plugs to mirror covers, then replace the mirror covers.
  9. Replace fairing inner cowlings and temperature sensor. (8) rivets, (3) phillips screws.
  10. Replace fairing black lowers. (10) 5mm allen bolts, (4) rivets.Note: You can leave the lowers until last. This will allow you to drive to a car wash with everything in place but the lowers, and spray off the bottom and front of your engine. Mine needed it badly.
  11. Replace black fairing top. (8) rivets, (4) phillips screws.
  12. Replace windshield mounting brackets. (4) 10mm nuts.
  13. Replace windshield. (4) 8mm bolts with washers and spacers, and (2) 6" long rubber gaskets.
  14. Replace windshield plastic bolt covers. (4) phillips screws.
  15. Show off to your wife and neighbors, while consuming a large quantity of beer and congratulating yourself.

You can buy the required Honda parts at your local dealer, or discount at hondaparts-direct.com. Ship your ABS Left Switch Set to us, and we'll convert it for you to work with your wiring harness.

David Silver Spares sells conversion kits for the UK and European market. The DavidSilverSpares.com kit includes our wiring harness and instructions, and all the Honda parts and everything else you need all in one box. The handlebar switch is a converted European ABS style switch, including the flash-to-pass feature missing on US bikes. The European conversion kits sold by DavidSilverSpares.com will not work on N.American bikes.

We offer two products to help you make this conversion:

1. Wire harness only, includes a mini switch that fits in your throttle housing to work the windshield. $60.
2. Modify your Honda ABS style switch set to work on your non-ABS bike. Ship your switch to us, we'll modify it and send it back. $20.

Find either product description on our ST1300 product page.



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California Scientific
4011 Seaport
West Sacramento
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Since Jan 2, 1985
 Go Packers! 
Sales@CalSci.com
800-284-8112
916-372-6800
Revised Friday, 28-Mar-2014 10:35:46 PDT

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